Materials - Definitions

abaca: A plant from the Philippines used to make baskets, bags and potholders. Grows like a banana tree. Has a slender trunk; leaves are thinner than banana leaves.

abalone (a-beh-LOH-nee): Mollusk; layered, iridescent blue-green interior of shell is carved or cut and used for inlay work, jewelry and small carvings.

agate (A-geht): Striped semiprecious stone used in jewelry. Stripes may be wide or narrow, straight or curved, but are generally concentric. Colors may vary within one stone, but are usually pale shades of bone, yellow, red and brown.

alabaster: Variety of fine-textured gypsum, usually white and translucent. Carved into decorative objects.

albesia: Very soft Sri Lankan wood. Fast growing and used as a windbreak in farming areas, albesia trees must be replaced after they finish growing. Used in jigsaw puzzles.

alpaca (metal): Alloy of copper, zinc and nickel. Silver-colored, tarnish-resistant. Often called "nickel silver." Clean with any brass cleaning solution or commercial metal-brightening product.

alpaca wool: Made from the soft, long fibers of the alpaca, a South American relative of the llama (part of the camel family) that thrives in the high elevations of the Andes Mountains. Comes in more than 20 natural shades of gray, brown and black; durable and warm. Excellent natural insulator--the tube-like fleece traps warm air in, cold air out. Resists felting (fibers matting together).

Ankh (ahhnk) cross: A figure like a cross having a loop instead of an upper vertical arm, used especially in ancient Egypt as a sacred emblem symbolizing life; the Latin cross, called crux ansata (literally "cross with a handle") is similar to the ankh; although the ankh predates Christianity by about 1,000 years, the Christian Church in Egypt today respects the ankh as part of their religious and cultural heritage.

arorog (ah-ROH rahg): Heavy vine, member of the rattan family, that grows to a thickness of 3/8 of an inch.

arpillera (ahr-pee-YEH-rah): One-of-a-kind, three-dimensional wall hanging or pillow decorated by appliqueing, quilting and adorning with numerous stuffed figures to illustrate scenes from village life. The name arpillera comes from the Spanish word for burlap. These bright wall hangings have backings of heavy, burlap-like cloth. Their figures are made from cotton and wool scraps, old stockings and flour bags. Arpilleras originated in Chile to document scenes of Colonial oppression. 

Aztec: Group that had extensive civilization in Mexico when Europeans arrived. Descendants still create art in their distinctive style.

bacbac: Soft strips of bark from the trunk of the abaca plant used in basketmaking in the Philippines.

balsa (BAHL-seh): Soft South American wood. Lightest in weight of all woods; straight grained with a coarse texture. Pale and creamy colored.

bamboo: Common basketmaking material favored for its flexibility, durability and aesthetic quality. Woody grass, naturally abundant in tropical countries and particularly suited to the climate of the Philippines. Regenerates easily near creeks, rivers and forests. This grass can be processed into strips, spokes or poles, used with its bark on or stripped. Plain bamboo items without dyes and elaborate attachments are easily washed by submerging in water and gently rubbing with a soft cloth; air dry thoroughly.

banban (BAHN-bahn): Sturdy vine used in Filipino basketry.

barkcloth: A cloth-like fabric produced by pounding and felting bark from a tree in the fig family. This process does not harm the tree which may be stripped of its bark as many as thirty or forty times.

batik (ba-TEEK): Centuries-old fabric dyeing technique that uses wax to resist dyes. Original designs are hand traced, then hand painted on both sides of the fabric using brushes or droppers. Hot wax is applied to the design in the areas where color is not required. The fabric is then dyed and the wax removed, leaving the original design. The process is repeated as many times as necessary; each color represents a separate dying and waxing process.

Baul: The Bauls, a tribal group of Bengal, are traveling musicians who sing Hindu and Muslim religious songs.

black brass: Chemical process turns brass black: design is then etched on, revealing the shiny brass below. Tarnish-resistant. Clean with a soft cloth moistened with vinegar. Rub brass firmly. Dip cloth in a small amount of salt to work over rust or tarnish spots. Wipe off excess salt and vinegar. For a highly polished look or for brass that is more tarnished, use "Nevr Dull" or "Brasso." Avoid abrasive brass polishes.

black star: Semiprecious stone (also called diospar) found mainly in India. Used in Nepalese jewelry.

black zebra marble: Common name given to marble with red and white surface marking in stripe formation.

block printing: Process of producing stamped impressions on fabric or paper using a printing block on which a design has been cut and inked.

bokhara: Type of Pakistani rug knot also called single knot. Afghan or Persian knot is called double knot.

botai (boh-TIE): Flower stalks from the coconut palm tree. Young stalks are creamy yellow; they turn green, then brown and grayish black as they mature.

brass: An alloy consisting of copper and zinc in variable proportions.

bread dough ornaments: Bread dough folk art from Ecuador has its origins in Roman Catholic and Indian traditions. For the Day of the Dead in early November, families in the mountain areas take simple masa pan (bread dough) figurines to grave sites to honor relatives who have died. In some regions, figures are also made for the Procession of the Christ Child, a Christmas festival, and for Godparents Day before Lent.

Originally the bread dough was edible, consisting only of flour, salt, leavening and water. It required four days to dry and broke easily. The process has improved technically in recent years; glues have been added to the dough. This tradition has given rise to a thriving cottage industry, especially among Indians in the area of Calderon, north of the capital city of Quito. Ornaments are shaped by hand or pressed into small molds then painted, varnished and baked. Ten Thousand Villages bread dough ornament artisans are organized into cooperatives; in many cases craft income supplements meager agricultural earnings.

brunido (broo-NHEE-doh): Burnishing process used in ceramics from Mexico. Each piece is molded, then burnished with a stone, then painted and burnished again until the surface has a high gloss. The piece is then fired. This labor-intensive process has been used since before the Spanish conquest. With the Spanish influence, decoration became more floral and ornate and today incorporates scenes from everyday life or Mexican history.

buntal (bun-TAHL): Fine, whitish strips taken from the buri palm. Used in Philippines basketry; hats made in the Philippines from this material are also known as Panama hats.

buri: Tall palm tree with large broad leaves found in the Philippines. From a distance, looks like a coconut tree. Leaves are used in basketry; seeds are used to decorate jewelry.

Burma teak: Common name given to marble with markings that resemble teak wood grain.

calabash: Name of the common bottle gourd. The word is also used to refer to utensils (dippers, bowls, bottles) or musical instruments made from the gourd.

capiz (ca-PEEZ) shell: Thin, naturally off-white colored shell of clams. Generally 3 to 4 inches in diameter and about 1/2 inch thick. Fishermen collect the capiz clams for food and sell the shells for craft making. Cut to size and spray painted, the shells are used to produce lampshades, ornaments and trinket boxes. The finished effect can look like stained glass windows. In fact, before glass windows became available in the Philippines capiz was used for windows in houses.

carnelian (cahr-NEEL-yehn): Popular jewelry stone, a type of quartz. Very hard, translucent and usually tomato-red with faint stripes.

carved gourd designs: Gourds are used as containers and utensils in many South American countries; the people of the Andes Mountains have made gourd containers for at least 4,000 years. Gourds are often highly decorated with carved designs. In the Peruvian Andes carved gourds are sold as sculpture. People, animals, houses and geometric designs form complex, rich patterns. The gourd is frequently dyed before carving to emphasize the design by increasing contrast between the gourd surface and the carved areas. Sometimes a black ink made of burnt leaves or grass mixed with animal fat is rubbed into the carving. In another method of decoration the dry gourd is first burned in some places with a glowing eucalyptus ember, adding deep black areas to the natural golden orange color of the gourd. The artist brings out the design by incising with a sharp tool, creating lighter, almost white lines. Also an African art.

ceramic production: Ancient art of making useful or ornamental articles from clay by shaping and then firing them in a kiln. Utilitarian pieces--mugs, bowls and other tableware--are fired at high heat and glazed to seal the ceramic. Not recommended for microwave use or dishwasher cleaning unless otherwise indicated on the item. Decorative items--vases, candleholders and miniatures--are "low-fired" and finished by polishing the surface with a stone until it is shiny. Such items are only for decorative purposes; water will leak and cause the paint to peel. Many ceramic items from Peru are formed from river clay deposits and retain this natural brown color. Most are painted with feathers because brushes are very expensive. Mexican ceramics are based on traditional designs and produced by age-old methods. All painting is done by hand using natural paints.

cocomidrib (COH-coh-mid-rib): Ribs of new leaves from coconut palm tree. Used for plant hangers, market baskets and to decorate jewelry. Sun-dried; varnished.

coir (COY-yur): Fiber made by cracking the outer brown husk of the coconut, shredding it into coarse fibers, then twisting or weaving. Used for doormats, household brushes. Water-resistant and naturally durable.

congklak: Indonesian name for board game, also known as dakon, which is played around the world by different names (e.g. known as wari or mankala game in Africa). Playing board has 14 cups, or compartments, and requires 48 similar-sized playing pieces (dry beans, shells or ball bearings are often used). Each player aims to capture pieces in his opponent's compartments. Game ends when all compartments on one player's side of the board are empty. According to tradition, this board game originated in the cafes of Cairo, Egypt, where it was customary for the loser to pay for the coffee drunk during the games. In some rural areas of Africa today, children play this age-old game in holes scooped out of the ground. Game is traditionally played for fun and prestige, not money.

copinal seed: Oval seed; often split, painted and used as pendants in jewelry from El Salvador.

cutwork embroidery: Embroidery process used on table linens and holiday ornaments. The craftsperson places the design on the cloth using a mixture of bluing and kerosene (which washes out easily). The craftsperson inserts the cloth into an embroidery hoop and removes the foot of a treadle sewing machine to expose the needle, then eases the embroidery hoop under the needle and begins to sew. Eye, hand and foot coordination are essential to move and turn the embroidery hoop back and forth to stitch the design. The craftsperson uses a sharp curved scissors to cut away the cloth from open parts of the design, then does the intricate webbing. When the design is complete, the craftsperson removes the cloth from the embroidery hoop and trims it carefully along the outer edge. It takes up to a year to learn to do cutwork designs well.

Cuzco: A city in the Peruvian Sierra which is considered a center for the revival of pre-Columbian Incan empire designs of traditional pottery forms, especially noted for repetitive geometric borders.

dakon game: See congklak

damru: A clapper drum, played by holding the drum with one hand and twisting the wrist back and forth quickly. This causes the knotted cords to strike the drum head. On the Indian sub-continent, this instrument is used by the "monkey man", an itinerant entertainer. He announces his arrival by playing the drum while pet monkeys do tricks to the beat.

Dhaka weaving: Colorful geometric designs are woven into the plain ground cloth by the skilled hands of Nepalese weavers. Six to eight inches of fabric per day is good production in this laborious technique.

dhokra (DOE-kra): This ancient form of metal casting known as lost-wax casting is practiced by nomadic ethnic groups in India. Lost-wax casting is world's earliest known method of working with molten metal. A craftsperson fashions a model of the desired object and covers it with a mixture of bees' wax and tree resin. Using bamboo and tamarind wood tools he works detailed designs into the wax. He covers the model (except for a tiny hole at its base) with a coating of soft clay, then with a thicker layer of clay mixed with rice husks and forms a funnel outlet around the hole. He dries the object completely, then heats it so the molten wax drains out. He inserts strips of metal and pieces of broken metal through the funnel and covers the opening carefully before the object goes for its final firing. In the firing process, the molten metal fills the areas once filled with wax. The craftsman slowly cools the object, then carefully, chisels away the clay model. Dhokra metal casting is practiced by different ethnic groups throughout India to make ornamental and utilitarian objects. The dhokra process matches their nomadic way of life, since it requires no fixed place or structure and does not make use of large or heavy tools.

dhurrie (DUH-ree): Flat-woven, reversible, pileless rug, woven on a hand loom using blends of cotton, wool and jute. Depending on the intricacy of color and design, a dhurrie represents between three and 45 days of work. To care for dhurries, turn them regularly for even wear. Shake or beat them gently with a carpet beater. Never use a rotary carpet cleaner on handmade rugs, it breaks fibers. Cushion rugs with a foam underpad to prolong their life. Absorb spills by blotting the area with uncolored paper towels or natural cloths. Remove tea, coffee, soft drink and milk stains from colorfast rugs by mixing two tablespoons of nonalkaline detergent with one pint of warm water. Apply until the stain disappears. Blow dry with a hair dryer set at lowest heat.

Diwali (di-WA-lee): The Hindu festival of lights held late in October throughout the Indian sub-continent.

doogi (do-GEE): A drum used in classical Indian music which is struck by the hand to mark the rhythm line.

Dzi beads (ZEE): Tibetan legend says that these beads fell from the heavens down to the forests of Tibet many generations ago. These ceramic beads are brought to Nepal by Tibetan refugees and enhanced by the finest Nepali jewelers with semi-precious stones and sterling silver.

ebony: Tropical hardwood with straight, even grain and texture. Heart of the wood is black and is used for fine carvings.

ektara (ek-TAR-a): Baul single stringed instrument played by plucking the string while squeezing the neck.

elephant grass: Wild grass used for baskets in both its natural color and dyed patterns.

enamel: A technique that applies color decoration to a hard surface such as metal, glass, or pottery using high heat and a special type of glass.

endisilk: A fabric handwoven from the ends of premium silk strands. Silk tufts that would usually be considered waste are unwound and respun with cotton.

Filigree: Process used to create delicate jewelry, ornaments and decorative objects of various shapes. To make gold filigree ornaments, brass wire is cut into small pieces and bent into the desired shape. Next the craftsperson dabs a thin layer of clay around the wires to hold them in place temporarily. A mixture of lime, silver and brass dust with just a bit of gold dust is put on each joint and the ornament is welded together using a blow torch. The finished item is dipped first in a silver wash and laid out to dry, then in a gold wash and dried again. Then it is thoroughly scrubbed and dried and semiprecious stones are cemented into place. Each item takes about 18 hours to complete. Filigree can also be created from gold, silver or copper wires. In their filigree products, St. Louis Silvercrafts uses silver purer than .925 sterling silver, resulting in unstamped high quality workmanship.

finger piano: Not to be confused with the bamboo thumb piano, the finger piano is played with the fingers. The piano can be tuned by adjusting the strings while the seeds inside add a rattle effect. Young men of the Ngas tribe in Nigeria play this portable instrument while walking to the village market or while sitting and relaxing. The finger piano is also an important element of courtship for the Ngas. Young men are considered more acceptable as a spouse if their fingers can skillfully and romantically serenade their loved one with the piano,

firoza (phi-ROSE-a) stone: Aquamarine shade of the semi-precious stone agate.

galtang (gahl-TAHNG): Sturdy vine used in basket making in the Philippines.

gambang (GAHM-bahng): Indonesian xylophone with the bars suspended over a decorative cradle resonator.

ghungru (GUHN-groo) ankle bells: Ankle bells used in Hindustani music; common in both northern and southern India dance traditions. Small brass bells are attached to macramed cotton cords.

gillim: Flat-woven, pileless rug. (More commonly called "killim" or "kelim": "gillim" is the word used by Afghan refugee organizations from whom Ten Thousand Villages purchases rugs.) Typically earth-toned in color and geometric in design. Colors are connected by a "slit weave" which creates gaps in the rug that are often misinterpreted as defects.

gilded: Covered with gold leaf.

granulation: One of the most elaborate metal work techniques, devised in ancient Greece, perfected by the Etruscans and lost in the Western world for 2,000 years. Tiny granules are soldered to a solid backplate to form surface design--granules may be as small as 1/1000 of an inch and form a surface texture.

graph dozi (DOE-zee): Persian term for cross-stitch; literally means "working in squares." Embroidery technique used by Afghan refugee women on clothes and home furnishings. These women live in refugee camps in Pakistan's Northwest frontier area.

guinet (gwee-NEHT): Husk around flower in coconut palm tree used in Philippine baskets.

guiro (QIJE-roe): Percussion rhythm instrument from Chile, made from native hardwood

Haitian metal sculptures: Artisans begin by cutting the sides of a steel oil drum in half, then flattening them into three by six foot sheets. They then transfer a hand-drawn paper pattern to the metal using a piece of chalk. They use chisels, dies and hammers to cut and mold the designs, smooth the steel's rough edges and beat out the convex and concave shapes. Some designs are then hand painted.

halamba (ha-Lahm-ah): Fast-growing Sri Lankan tree. Grows along the edge of paddy fields, sometimes springing from a small branch placed directly in the ground.

handloom weaving: Handloom weaving is an ancient craft that represents thousands of years of tradition and accumulated skill. In Bangladesh, craftswomen hand-spin cotton into thread on wooden or bamboo spinning wheels called chorkas. They weave the cotton thread by hand on foot-powered looms. The weaver's success depends on her skill in varying and controlling the tightness of the woof according to the eventual intended use of the fabric. Handloomed fabrics need to be durable because they are traditionally hand washed every day by beating them against a stone.

hematite: Metallic-looking, semi-precious stone and natural mineral related to iron ore.

hemp: Tall plant used for making rope and cord. Withstands water better than any other natural fiber.

hinggiw (hing-GYOO): A Philippines crawling plant with a tough stem and grayish-brown bark. Quite brittle when dried. To make it suitable for basket making it is soaked in water and woven before it dries; this helps it retain its form and resist sagging. Abundant in forests throughout the Philippines.

ikat (EE-kat): Process of patterning the cloth by dying the threads before they are woven. Areas of the thread are wrapped to protect them from dye and unwrapped after the dye process to expose the original color. This may be done once or several times depending on how many colors are desired. Single ikat involves the dying of one set of threads either warp (the base threads), or weft (the second, interwoven set of threads). Double ikat involves the dying of both sets of threads.

Incan: Design which reflects artistic traditions from the time of the Incas, a pre-Columbian empire which once encompassed most of the Andes highlands of South America.

jacquard weave: An intricate variegated weave made on a jacquard loom and used for brocade, tapestry and damask.

jamdani weaving Oahm-donny: Geometric and floral designs inlaid into fine cotton or silk handweave, the modem form of a tradition that dates back to ancient times.

jaspe (ZHA-spa):Term used in Central America for ikat (see ikat).

Job's (JOHBIS) tears: Product of a tall (usually over three feet high), branched grass that grows in Southeast Asia and Haiti. The grass blades are white to bluish-gray, sometimes mottled or striped, and are cultivated both for ornamental purposes and as food. Beads of the plant are used for necklaces and rosaries.

Jute: Glossy "golden fiber" of Bangladesh, that country's major export. Leaves from growing plant are used as a vegetable. Stalks reach eight to twelve feet in three to four months, and are then ready to harvest. Workers cut stalks near the ground and tie them in bundles. For two to three weeks the bundles are soaked in water to allow them to rot. Fibers are then pulled off the stalk by hand; waste is used for fuel. Available in several grades--white jute is used for handicrafts; lesser grades are used for rug backing and burlap bags. After a thorough washing, the fiber turns white and is ready to be sun-dried, then used. Jute that has been soiled or has darkened with age can be hand washed in a mild bleach solution, then rinsed well and dried to restore its light, golden color. Avoid over-washing--jute loses its tensile strength and begins to deteriorate when washed.

jute handmade paper: Note cards, wrapping paper and envelopes handmade in Bangladesh of scraps from jute mills. The fibers are beaten down into a pulp that is floated in a large tub of water. The pulp is collected on a hand-held screen until a thin, even sheet of paper is formed. It is transferred to a steel sheet, dried in the sun, then peeled from the sheet. The paper is then cut to shape and size. Rag and other fibers are added to give color, improve strength and smoothness. Most sheets are bleached with environmentally safe compounds; solid color sheets are dyed.

Jyapu (GEE-apoo): Ethnic group native to the Kathmandu valley of Nepal.

kabaka rattle (KA-bah-ka): Indian rhythm instrument made of coconut shell covered with multi-colored glass beads, played by hitting against the palm of the hand.

kaisa (kie-YEE-seh): Wild grass used in basketmaking. Dries from its natural light green color to a very pale, almost tan, green. Sturdy.

Kandahari embroidery (con-dah-HAR-ee): This delicate stitch is named for the region in southeast Afghanistan known for this distinctive style of silk stitchery.

kapok (KAY-pahk): Mass of silky fibers that clothe the seeds of the kapok (or silk-cotton) tree, which grows 150 or more feet high with widely spreading branches and a spiny trunk as big as nine feet in diameter. Kapok is used commercially as a filling for toys, mattresses, pillows, cushions, life preservers, quilts and sleeping bags and as insulation.

khanjani (kahn-JAH-nee) cymbals: Indian instrument usually associated with traditional and devotional music. Consists of four sets of brass cymbals mounted in a wooden handle.

khartal (CAAR-tall): Rhythm instrument from Indian sub-continent, wood block with bells.

Kikuyu (ki-COO-you): Largest ethnic group in Kenya; Bantu-speaking, primarily agricultural; many live in Kenya's fertile central highlands.

kiondos (kee-YAHN-dohs): Soft baskets made of hand-twirled sisal. Commonly used as handbags in North America. Designed in the traditional Wakamba ethnic group method of open weaving. Kenyan word for basket.

Kisii (KEE-see) stone: Kisii stone is a type of soapstone found only in a small area of western Kenya near the town of Kisii. No two stones are alike. The size of Kisii stone crafts is determined by the size of stone used; one product may be offered in a range of sizes. Heavy and rather fragile, handling by small children is not recommended.

kudu (KOO-doo): Large African antelope that has tall, ringed, spirally twisted horns and is grayish brown with vertical white stripes on the sides. Also spelled "koodoo". Subject of stained muhugu wood carving from Kenya.

lacquerware: Boxes, trays, thimbles and other items produced on wooden or woven bamboo bases that have been sealed and sanded to absolute smoothness. Up to ten coats of strained lacquer are individually applied, dried in a dust-free environment and sanded. The final coat is sanded with fine coal powder, then polished and hand rubbed until it gleams. The design may be scratched on, painted or formed by applying gold leaf. A final layer of lacquer protects the artwork.

laminated: A finishing process which is achieved by applying glue and building up layers.

lampacanay (lahm-PAIIK-a-nie): Farmland grass that is woven into mats, baskets, fans and animal forms. Grows six to eight feet tall in muddy, watery areas of the Philippines (mostly in rice fields); has long, slender blades. Stalks are cut off plants, sun-dried then made into rope that is sold to basketmakers in rolls. Originally used as cattle feed.

Lao (rhymes with "cow") fish trap: Basket trap used to catch fish in Laos. The basket is submerged in water and minnows swim in through the opening, then are trapped inside by the basket stopper. In Laos, fish are dried, salted and eaten whole.

Lastarria (la-stah-RREE-yeh) metawe (meh-tah-way) pottery: Chilean pottery. "Metawe" is the Mapuche Indian word for pottery. (Also see Aconcagua metawe pottery above.)

lapis lazuli (LAP-ehss LA-zuh-lee): Intensely blue, opaque semiprecious stone. Its speckles of lustrous yellow pyrites were thought in ancient times to be flecks of gold.

Leu (loo) handwoven cotton: Textiles produced by the Leu, an ethnic group from northern Thailand. Weaving is a significant part of their cultural tradition.

lontar: Leaf from lontar palm, used in Philippine basketry.

loofa: Sponge made from the fibrous skeleton of the luffa fruit. This fruit grows on a climbing herb plant found in tropical regions.

lucmoy (LOOK-moy): Sticks of this shrub, found in the Philippines, are made into baskets by slicing, then drying or bleaching them under the sun. Sturdy but flexible material.

Maasai (MAS-eye): Pastoral tribal people who live in Great Rift Valley of Kenya. Maasai herders follow seasons in search of grass and water for their cattle. Beadwork decoration is an important cultural tradition for the Maasai women and warriors. Each bead has been individually hand strung on these authentic Maasai jewelry pieces.

macanan game (MOCK-a-non): This game is a contest between tiger and hunters, both sides fighting for survival. In Java, Indonesia, the game is played by adults and older children. Instead of using a specially carved board, they often draw the playing field on the floor with chalk or outline it in the dust. Stones or broken bits of pottery are their playing pieces.

muhugu (moo-HOO-goo): Hardwood tree native to parts of East Africa. Used extensively by Kenyan wood carvers. Muhugu carvings are treated with a hot wax finish; apply furniture or spray wax to keep them at their best. Because North American humidity levels are lower than in Kenya, carvings may develop hairline fractures and cracks. Repair with matching wood putty. Variations in the grain and color ensure that no two muhugu carvings are exactly alike.

malachite (MA-leh-kiet): Semiprecious stone used in jewelry making. Deep green with white or black veins.

mandala (man-DAHL-ah): A graphic symbol of the universe, usually a circle enclosing a square; found throughout Asia.

marquetry (MARK-eh-tree): A type of decorative woodwork where different types of wood are cut and joined together to form a patterned surface.

Mehendi (ma-HEN-dee): Plant whose leaves are ground into a fine paste, called henna, to produce a colorful paint used to draw decorations on the hands and feet of women on the Indian sub-continent. This practice and designs were introduced by the Moghuls in the 12th century.

mirror work embroidery: Method of decorating pillow cases and hand bags. Designs are traditional, stylized shapes and forms sketched onto cloth and then hand embroidered in various stitches and studded with mirrors appliqued into the pattern. Mirrors are made of thin glass blown into spheres, roughly silvered inside and broken into the required shapes and sizes. Fabric and yarn are colorfast.

moceno: Bolivian flute with two pipes. There are five playing holes on the top; the two holes on the bottom are used for tuning. The moceno is played by blowing directly into the blow hole, not across it. It is usually tuned to C major.

mokolo harp (moe-kow-LOW): Five-string harp with hide-covered sound box from the grasslands of Cameroon.

moonstone: Semiprecious gemstone. Milky white with a pearly or opaline luster.

Morri: Popular Persian rug pattern often called elephant foot. Consists of repetitive field of elongated hexagons.

mother-of-pearl: Colorful, iridescent lining of the pearl oyster. Frequently used in jewelry, inlay work, etching and on handles of knives and forks. Shells are cut into pieces and polished, then a fine drill is used to make patterns. Though the tools used are simple, the skill and patience needed are exceptional. Many designs require a thousand strokes of the artisan's drill before completion. Relatively hard, resistant to cracking, clean, attractive and inexpensive.

mulberry bark paper: Handmade paper made from bark of mulberry trees. The bark is harvested from tree shoots to ensure future growth. The bark is dried naturally then boiled to soften the fibers. The pulp is beaten and formed, then dried in the sun. This process results in soft yet strong paper that lasts for years, retains an organic look and feel and shows the fiber from which it is made. Each sheet varies slightly. Mulberry bark paper is the same paper used in ancient cultures to record words of wisdom and scriptures on documents that still exist today.

nakshi kantha (NAHK-shee KAIfN-teh) embroidery: Famous embroidered quilt of Bangladesh. Kanthas are traditionally made by stitching together layers of worn cloth, often as a gift for a baby or newlywed member of the family. They may depict flowers, village scenes or mythical stories. Most traditional kanthas are designed with a central lotus that represents the world, unity and strength. The women who make kanthas stitch objects they hope will grace their lives and those of their families: jewelry, farm equipment, household tools and livestock. The design is stitched in outline on hand woven, unbleached cloth with light yellow thread, then filled in with small stitches. Some kanthas are colored with chemical dyes, others with the subtle dyes of plant roots, sawdust, bark, fruit, leaves and flowers.

Nasca bird earrings: Earrings derived from huge bird designs etched in desert sand south of Lima, Peru. These designs were thought to have origins as early as 900 B.C. by the Paracas people. Experts guess that it took three separate people groups working over a span of 1,500 years to complete them. It is forbidden to walk or drive on these designs: one must fly over in an airplane to accurately see these mysterious etchings that span to 100 meters wide.

ndiros (N-deer-ose): Baskets with lids that are used to store and serve food. Small baskets would be handed to visitors in a home and contain roasted coffee beans to welcome the guests. Larger baskets are used to serve millet bread during meals to keep it nice and hot. They are also used to store grains, flour and other foodstuffs in to protect them from insects and dust. Made from raffia.

nito (NEE-toh): Fine stemmed vine that grows in woodlands, farmlands and along river banks in the Philippines. May be used whole or split and woven into baskets and other items without curing or drying--vines crack when exposed to heat. Outer skin only is used; inner portion is discarded. Natural colors vary from green to light brown to black.

nito Katipunero's (KAH-tee-poo-NEH-row's) hat: See stock number 7911070. This jungle hat is made from nito, a fine-stemmed vine that grows in woodlands, farmlands and along river banks in the Philippines. Natural colors vary from green to light brown to black. "Katipunero" is the name given to Filipinos who fought the Spaniards who occupied their country from 1521 until independence was gained in 1898. This hat's design is similar to that worn by the Katipuneros.

Nubian: Nubians are a distinct tribe from Northern Sudan or Southern Egypt which migrated into Uganda during the last two hundred years. They were welcomed by the Kings of Buganda, "the Kabakas", due to their outstanding skills in basketry and other crafts. Every Nubian woman has to be able to produce baskets and mats at least for her own use. Traditionally she cannot get married without having made her own mat and a food cover for her new home. Tabaga is a flat basket, the Kuta is the conical shaped lid to cover the food which is served at big occasions like weddings, funerals and religious ceremonies.

numdah (NUHM-duh): Rug hand made of 100 percent wool, or a mixture of wool and cotton. Fibers are fluffed up and then spread out on a mat in the shape of the finished numdah. They are patted down lightly and sprinkled with water then rolled tightly in the mat. After this has dried, it is unrolled and the procedure is repeated twice more. This results in a very tight, felt-like pad. The finished pad is embroidered with both crewel and chain stitch techniques, usually using 100 percent wool thread.

nyatiti (nie-yah-TEE-tee): Eight-stringed musical instrument of the Luo people, who live along the shores of Lake Victoria in western Kenya.

obsidian (uhb SI-dee-un): Mineral found as volcanic glass and used in jewelry. Similar to onyx, but is a translucent black color.

ocarinas (oh-kah-ree-nahss): Clay flute from Chile. Also called "sopla barro" (blow on the clay) in the Quechua Indian language. A pre-Columbian instrument used throughout the Andean region of South America, traditionally to imitate the song of birds or call cattle down from the mountains.

olive wood: Sturdy hardwood with an interesting grain. Gnarled olive trees cover knolls in and around Jerusalem and other areas of the Middle East. In one piece of wood, colors may range from soft tan to deep brown. Well cured to prevent warping and cracking. Finished pieces are highlighted by a clear finish.

onyx: Semiprecious translucent stone ranging in color from white to deep green. Cool water is usually poured over onyx during cutting and lathing to prevent cracking and minimize dust. Because of its fragility, onyx requires a delicate touch. Repair breakage with epoxy adhesive.

opal: Precious stone used in jewelry crafts. Colors range from white to mixtures that include black.

oxidized: A chemical process that produces a decorative film on a metal surface

pandan (pahn-dahn): Philippines basketry shrub that resembles the pineapple plant--its leaves are also thorny, and its fruit is similar; grows wild in many places.

pantis: Part of the rattan vine family. Grows under heavy forest cover in the Philippines. The red-brown cover is stripped by rubbing the panlis by hand against a cloth filled with sand, revealing the natural cream color beneath. Used in weaving baskets.

papier-mache (pay-pur-muh-SHAY): Process that yields decorative items such as boxes, ornaments and collectibles, by forming paper paste into the desired shape. Some pieces have a wooden base or frame. Traditionally, a thin layer of black paint is applied after the paper base dries and hardens. Next, artisans outline the pattern and paint in the details by hand, often using a brush made with only two or three hairs. Papier-mache items are lightly varnished and can be cleaned by wiping with a damp cloth.

papyrus: Papyrus plant is tall sedge or reed of the Nile valley in Egypt used by ancient Greeks, Romans and Egyptians as writing material. Handmade paper is prepared from the pith or central plant tissue of papyrus plant.

patina: A thin layer of corrosion, usually brown or green, that appears on copper or copper alloys, such as bronze, as a result of natural or artificial oxidation. The sheen is produced by age and used on any antique surface.

Pisac arybalo (pee-sahk ahr-REE-bah-low) vase: Ceremonial vase from the town of Pisac in Peru. "Arybalo" is the Indian name for the vessel, which was traditionally used to carry water. The handles are to attach a cord for carrying the vessel on one's back.

rabana (rah-BARN-ah): Single-sided drum with cymbals from Sri Lanka.

raffia (RA-fee-yu): la pinnate-leaved palm, the leafstalks are used to make a strong fiber. The porous-centered stalk is dried and used to make rattles.

rainstick: Made from dry sections of the cactus plant. Craftspeople in Chile produce rainsticks for use in traditional Andean music. To make rainsticks, the outer bark of the cactus piece is cleaned. Debris and other remains from outside the cactus core are removed with a file leaving a clean interior. Then the cactus is cut to size and cactus spines are inserted through the bark in a crisscross pattern, spiraling from top to bottom. Next, one of the cactus ends is sealed and any protruding spines are cut from the outer surface. A handful of lava pebbles is then inserted into the cactus through the remaining opening which is then sealed with another piece of wood and glue. The "rain" sound is produced by the movement of the small pebbles as they fall across the cactus spines running through the cactus interior.

rattan: Jungle vine in the palm family that grows along the ground and climbs toward the light by twisting itself around trees. Grows to great lengths, reaching to the top of the jungle canopy where it flowers and drops its seeds. Stalks are cut into strips, dried and made into baskets and furniture. Stalks can be easily bent and hold their shape when dry. Also called cane.

red zebra marble: Common name given to marble with red and white surface marking in a stripe formation.

resin: Hardened tree sap. Dyed and formed into shapes; used in jewelry making. Also used to coat Lao baskets to make them waterproof.

retablo (ray-TAH-blo): Story box containing figures that depict a Christian story (often a nativity scene). Originally used to celebrate certain saints' days in Spain and Latin America. Families would also carry them for safety and good fortune when traveling and present them to the host and hostess as a gift upon arrival. Vary greatly in size--some are as small as a matchbook--and degree of intricacy. The chest is a wood box modeled after a church with a top spire and two hinged doors. The wood is stuccoed with plaster then painted with aniline dye and egg tempera. The artist handcrafts figures from a potato-base paste made according to a family recipe. Each figure is air dried then painted, varnished and placed into the interior scene. Traditional retablos contain a divine or celestial scene on the top level.

reverse applique (a-pluh-KAY): To sew or apply one piece of fabric underneath another. Working from the top down, craftswomen lay different color pieces on a base cloth and handstitch them into place; often several layers are used. Each color is cut so it reveals the layer directly beneath it. The technique produces exquisite positive-negative symmetrical designs.

Reverse glass painting: The outline of a design is silk screened onto the back or reverse side of the glass. Details are painted first, then larger color areas, then background color. Finally a coat of varnish is applied to protect the paint.

rosewood: Tropical hardwood known for its beautiful figuring and rich, dark color. Takes a high polish easily, name is derived from aroma wood exudes as it is sawed.

rubber wood: Kind of wood used in production of handicrafts from Sri Lanka. Trees produce latex (used in rubber production) for 25 to 30 years, after which time they are uprooted and new trees planted. Rubber wood is considered environmentally friendly since it makes use of discarded trees.

rucksack: German phrase meaning back pack, literally "back bag".

rueca spinning: Traditional Bolivian method of spinning alpaca and sheep wool using a rueca--a drop spindle. A rueca resembles a wooden spinning top with a long spindle at the top. Men and women attach raw, carded alpaca wool to the spindle and twirl the top with their fingers. Tension spins the wool as the rueca spins downward.

saguisi (sa-GWEE-see): Bark of a palm tree's branch. Tree grows abundantly in cool temperatures in the Philippines. Bark is stripped off the branch, then woven into baskets.

salamanca (sah-lah-MAHN-keh): Quechua Indian word for a type of ceramic water pitcher that is filled from the bottom.

seed pod earrings: Earrings formed from the seed pod of the sabliye (sa-blee-YAY), Caribbean tree known as "monkey no climb" because of its prickly trunk. Craftspeople remove the pods' centers, then varnish, paint and carve the pods into earrings.

shesham (SHEE-shiLim): Soft, dark wood that grows in the foothills of northern India. Hand-carved into recipe boxes, trays, book stands, tables, boxes, candlesticks and room dividers. Noted for its rich reddish-brown color. Fast-growing, grows as high as 100 feet tall and eight feet around. Durable, insect-resistant and easily carved. To maintain shesham's natural luster, apply lemon oil or furniture polish from time to time. Because of its high oil content, everyday handling will enhance the finish of shesham wood items.

Shipibo (shi-PEA-boo): The indigenous people of the middle Ucayali river valley of Peru, famous for their pottery with it's maze-like geometric decoration.

sigid (sij-id): Type of Philippine woody climbing vine commonly scraped and split for weaving. Thrives in forests. Color varies from white to red when skin is peeled off after soaking it in water for a week. With the bark on, vine is chocolate brown. Very pliable.

sika (SEE-kuh): Jute "hanging cupboards" used to keep food and clothing off the floor in Bangladesh, where they are made. Used to display plants and baskets in North America.

silk screening: Printing method. Design or lettering is cut on a thin coated surface that has been applied to a sheet of silk. Ink is squeezed through the cut-out areas in the silk onto another material, such as glass, wood or cloth.

sisal (SIE-suhl): Fiber obtained from the leaves of the agave (ah-GAH--vay), a plant cultivated for its fiber. Used to make baskets, bags and figures.

soapstone: Very slick stone with a slippery feel. Composed of the mineral talc. Colors include ivory, brown, gold, rust, rose, greenish-gray. Very soft; can be easily cut.

soldering: Joining two or more pieces of metal with an alloy (solder) that has a lower melting point.

stained baskets: Some Philippine baskets are stained by first blow-torching the item, scorching it to remove rough fibers and soften its texture. The item is then cleaned with detergent diluted in water, then air- or sun-dried. Black coal tar, usually mixed with a little kerosene, paint thinner or gasoline, is brushed over the item. This protects the item from insects and mold, and gives it a stained look. The item is dried again, then a top coat of varnish or clear lacquer is applied. This staining process helps make the basket resistant to fading.

sterling silver: Alloy of silver (92.5 percent) and copper (7.5 percent). Inexpensive silver cleaners work as well as more expensive jewelry store brands.

Tagore (tah-GORE): Nobel prize winning poet Rabindranath Tagore, 1861-1914, a Bengali, who is considered the national poet of Bangladesh.

takong (teh-KUNG): Large gray-brown petal of the coconut flower. Wide strips of takong are used to make baskets in the Philippines.

takro balls: Takro is a game traditionally played by Thai males with a soccer-sized ball woven with rattan strips. Takro has been a popular sport in Thailand for at least 200 years and is still widely played throughout the country. Five to ten men pass the ball to one another over a net, trying to keep it aloft by using every part of the body except the hands.

tanlak (tahn-LAEK): Philippines basketry plant that grows like sugarcane. Often scraped to its natural pale color, then dyed.

tarka: Wooden flutes carved in tradition of Tiahuanacu, the once-glorious capital city of an ancient Aymara Indian empire that exercised control over a vast territory. Located west of Bolivia's capital city of La Paz, Tiahuanacu was the site of many magnificent buildings carved of stone.

tarshumar (tahr-shoo-MAHR) embroidery: Darning stitch that produces a brick wall-like effect. Craftsperson counts both warp and weft threads of the background material. Tarshumar literally means "counting thread".

terra cotta pottery: Terra cotta literally means "baked earth." Terra cotta pottery has been a traditional art of rural areas where clay is widely available since ancient times. Items are hand made and fired in above-ground kilns. Potters rely on the sun to dry the items before glazing and firing; rain, floods and unseasonal cloudiness can severely hamper production. Workers in rural areas are also affected by disruptions in river and road transportation systems. Traditionally, some of these items were black because of both the iron in the clay and the firing process.

thumb piano: Instrument unique to Africa with a sounding box that can be made of wood, reeds, gourds, turtle shells, sardine tins or just about any hollow or concave object. The tongues (also called spikes) are usually made of metal, but occasionally of reeds. In Cameroon, the thumb piano is called a "zanza ndenge." It produces 14 notes. Its hollow wood box is decorated on the back and sides with burnt wood designs. A popular use of the thumb piano is to accompany storytelling. The thumb piano is a folk instrument and can be played easily by anyone with the ability to move her or his thumbs. The most common chants or accompaniments consist of three-tone melodies repeated over and over. In an African village one is likely to encounter an ordinary person walking along and plunking softly on a thumb piano in a simple, repetitious song, spontaneously made up because the combination seemed pleasing to the ear.

tikiw (ti-KYOO): Philippines basketry grass that resembles leaves of rice plants, except its leaves are wider. Found in fresh-water swamps and new rice paddies--may overpopulate the rice if not gathered away quickly. Yellowish-green when dried.

tilob (TEE-lahb): Vines usually found clinging on mature trees in the Philippines. Green, moderately tough stems are ideal for weaving when dried. Becomes dark brown when dried. Flat and pliable, resistant to breaking.

Tinalak (TEE-no-lak): Fabric made from a fruit-bearing abaca plan. Fibers are stripped by hand from the soft wet pulp of the abaca stalk, combed repeatedly and sun bleached. These fibers are tie-dyed using a "double boiler" made from two earthen pots. Hour after hour, the fibers are boiled as long as three weeks for the black color, and two full days for the red. The cream color is the natural fiber. Lastly, the colored fibers are stretched and woven on a backstrap loom, then pounded with a mallet and rubbed with a cowrie shell to give the cloth its waxen sheen.

Tonala: Ancient ceramic center in Guadalajara area of Mexico renown for pottery. Also describes pottery in traditional Tonala style.

Tumi (TOO-me): Native name of ceremonial knife dating back to 400 B.C. in Moche culture of Peru. Represented face of Moche deity. Tumi were originally made of gold and silver. Design has been adapted for jewelry.

Turkana: Small group of tribal, nomadic herders who live in the northwestern desert region of Kenya and produce baskets.

turquoise: Blue semiprecious stone; deep sky blue is the most valuable shade. Because of its chemical properties and porous, soft texture, turquoise is subject to fading and discoloration. Keep it away from soaps, sprays, chemicals, dirt and moisture.

vicuna, stuffed toy (vie-COON-yuh): Made in Peru; alpacas and llamas are also fashioned. The vicuna, alpaca and llama are all related Andean animals. Craftsperson buys sheep skins and cuts them into various size pieces with a razor. These pieces are sewn together by hand into the shape of a vicuna. Then a wire skeleton is put inside the hide and the item is stuffed with wool or cotton and sewn shut. Eyes, mouth and nose are sewn on with black yam. Finally the fleece is colored with a brown liquid and combed out with a small wire brush to smooth the color and fluff up the wool. A large family can complete 50 stuffed toys a week if everyone helps.

water hyacinth: A floating flower that grows and blooms in the waterways of Bangladesh. Used in the creation of handmade paper and other items.

wheatstraw cards: Cards are decorated by cutting strands of straw into narrow slivers and then gluing them together to create a design. Craftspeople use simple tools: a flat board, a pot of glue, a sharp blade and a pair of scissors.

white brass: Another name for white metal (see entry for white metal).

white metal: Any of several light-colored alloys used especially as a base for plated silverware and ornaments. Lead-based or tin-based alloy.

whitewash wood: Wood finish used in nativity sets from the Philippines. The wood used is called "batikuling" locally. To create the whitewash finish, two coats of a white, water-based latex paint are applied, then sanded manually. Later the item is dipped in an antique-colored, water-based paint, then polished with wax.

wicker: Term that describes furniture or household accessories made by weaving coarse fibers such as rattan (most common), raffia, buri and many dried grasses together around a frame. Bark is stripped and material passed through a machine to obtain wicker of varying sizes.

zambales (zahm-BAH-layss): Outer skins of rattan poles. Used for basketmaking. Local term used on the island of Cebu, Philippines.